Getting crafty with meats
In a day and age where handcraft is king, and where high-quality produce rules supreme, it was only a matter of time before a restaurant merging the two saw the light of day. Neither does it come as a surprise that the mastermind behind the conception is Daniel Crespi, a genius when it comes to dreaming up new and timely gastronomic experiences.
Omakase Köttslöjd is, in many ways, an otherworldly experience. In what world is it okay (read: politically correct) to construct an entire meal around meat? In what world are the chefs who don’t look a day older than 25 dressed in baseball caps and sweats as they bring out the dishes from behind the counter in the open kitchen? In what world does fine dining intertwine with the sound of old-school hip-hop? But at Omakase Köttslöjd, where all of this is a reality, it feels like the most natural thing in the world.
Omakase Köttslöjd, the restaurant with the nearly unpronounceable name, needs some clarification. Here’s a quick breakdown – it’s got 15 seats and five chefs. There’s a set menu of 17 courses (995 kronor), all of which include some form of meat (even the dessert), and a paired beverage menu (875 kronor). Omakase, a Japanese phrase that means “I’ll leave it up to you”, entails that you, as a patron, leave all decisions regarding the menu to the chefs. Köttslöjd, a Swedish word that roughly translates to “meat handcraft”, is what your taste buds are about to experience. Now that you’re acquainted with the concept, let’s dig in.
A small wooden tray features the first few courses: four small morsels of pork shoulder, pork loin, goose liver and rump steak, each with its different origin specified in the corresponding menu. The details in the description of the rump steak catches my eye, and one of the chefs excitedly explains that they have crossed a black Angus heifer with a Wagyu steer to produce this particular morsel of meat. It is clear that the Adidas-clad restaurant crew is passionate about every single item they serve, however small the portions on the plate may be.
The entire meal is an intriguing study in quality artisanal meats, which are prepared with passion and respect by the restaurant’s own butcher in Järvsö, 300 kilometres north of Stockholm. During the meal, we eat our way through quite a few animals – hare, swine, deer, duck and ox – before arriving at the dessert, an aged Black Angus chuck cut, which is served with apple and marrow.
For those who are looking for a dining experience beyond the regular, Omakase Köttslöjd is well worth the visit. At times, the nerdiness in regard to produce, production methods and cooking techniques reaches intolerable levels. It almost gets to a point where it is sometimes forgotten if the dish reaches the same heights in flavour. It is A for effort, and B for execution.
dinner at Omakase Köttslöjd
08 506 400 80