Restaurant Review: La Colline, The Med Under One Roof

Micha van Dinther
Posted 10 months ago in Food & Drink

Brasserie La Colline
Panorama Test

The symbolism wasn’t lost on us when the yellow and green signs of St. Patrick’s Irish pub were stripped from the façade, making space for designer Jonas Bohlin’s bright, airy and luxe interior, an interpretation of a modern French brasserie. Named La Colline – French for ‘the hill’ – because of its location on top of the Götgatan slope, it was yet another example of the gastronomic rebirth of the Slussen area, where one dive bar after another is being replaced by a high-calibre establishment. Many were delighted to find out that La Colline was a new project from the people behind restaurant Tranan, which is something of an institution on Stockholm’s restaurant scene.

Stepping into La Colline is an instant way of getting rid of the winter blues. It has a slightly rowdy ambience with the clinking of glasses, staff running in and out with plates and the large hanging blackboard featuring menu specials being hauled back and forth on a beam fastened on the ceiling. It is from this board we pick our snacks – a tin of anchovies with bread (75 kronor), roasted and salted padrones (55 kronor), Barolo salami (75 kronor) and an aged Comté cheese with crisp bread (45 kronor). We love how easy La Colline makes it for us to try all these French, Italian and Spanish delicacies – all of which are available in small portions.

Moving on to some of the mid-sized dishes, we really appreciate the steak tartar (175 kronor), which is infused with a hint of Asia through the addition of sesame seeds, wasabi and soy sauce. We are intrigued by this anarchism in seasoning, until we try the cured duck (115 kronor), where the sharpness of the Västerbotten cheese, the tanginess of the lingonberries and the pickled chanterelles and onions leaves our taste-buds in total turmoil.

Settling down again at the first bite of the slow-roasted celeriac (195 kronor), served on a bed of creamed lentils, kale chips and pickled onion, we appreciate this dish’s more traditional flavour compositions. Also the duck breast (265 kronor), served with a silky smooth pumpkin purée and kale chips, makes for a good choice. By the time we’re introduced to the dessert menu, we realise we’ve filled up on all sorts of delicious things. And that is just what La Colline does best – the menu and wine menu (with many natural wines available by the glass) lets us zigzag across the Med (and sometimes even the world), trying out lots of goodies on the way.

Götgatan 29
08 642 00 60
lacolline.se

Photo La Colline Website

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