I’ve met him many times. Many of them were out on the backyard patio, casually speaking of the weather and what to put on the barbeque. At others, we have talked about the recent art exhibitions on show in town; what to see, what’s hot, what’s not and so on. Countless times, we have looked at each other’s wineglasses, as good neighbours do, wondering what’s in it.
This time, I had walked over to internationally-acclaimed crime writer and gastroholic Mons Kallentoft for a little more info on exactly what he was quaffing these days. He had just released an amazing volume on his hedonistic lifestyle called Food Junkie. My curiosity was piqued.
The book describes a feverish, frantic hunt for the greatest food and drink fix there is, a journey with ups and downs told with a straight right punch to the gastronomic solar plexus of this world. As in his crime writing, the dead (or is it the supernatural?) speak up and send us messages from the other side.
When I enter his open kitchen, his art collection adorning the walls and floors, he tells me a story about one of his many adventures, this time to the world-renowned restaurant El Bulli, just north of Barcelona.
Mons Kallentoft: Once at the el Bulli in Spain we drank far too many bottles of Clos Erasmus and it ended up that we got lost in the countryside outside the tavern. The respectable staff were moderately excited back at the restaurant to have hosted a Swedish binge, haute style. Luckily we were welcomed back after that.
When I read your first gastro-book Food Noir I felt it was a turning point for me. It marked ther true beginning of my interest in food and wine and it was like entering a brand new world, something that I didn’t believe could exist. After reading Food Junkie, I get the impression that you must have had the same experience when you entered the world of gastronomy at an early age – but where did it all really start for you?
It started when I was little. My grandmother was a cook and I spent a lot of time with her and I really loved being in the kitchen. Then life took a turn at the restaurant Arzak is San Sebastian one evening when I was twenty-three. I realized then that gastronomy could be a way of life. And so it has become.
Food Junkie is mostly about the indulgence of food and you mention a large number of extremely upmarket wines. Is there any of them that especially stayed in your mind, that you constantly returned to?
La Tache 95 and Masseto 2001 are two magical wines. One is a classic burgundy – the best thing there is in my opinion – and the other is a nearly perfect modern wine from Italy. What’s not to like about them, aside from the price maybe?
In your opinion, what wine at the Systembolaget represents the best value for money, is easily found and does not need to be pre-ordered?
I would say the Castello di Brolio, Chianti. That’s a wine that would make sense in every household.
What are you drinking in your family? What is the house wine at the Kallentofts?
Leoville Barton 2003 is a household favourite. St. Julien was good 2003, despite many considered it to be a weak year. It’s also quite affordable just because of that fact, not many people ask for it. I bought a bunch of boxes and they are magic to drink now. Otherwise we quite often drink a Barolo from Ratti.
Wine has a nice ability to complement and enhance the flavour of food. This is also something that confuses many. You have eaten virtually anything that can be put on a plate – are there any exceptional no-gos and must-haves in terms of matching wine and food?
I like a red Rhone to a hot chili. It really fills the palate. Otherwise I’m pragmatic. Good wine is more important than the matching itself. Always. I consider Champagne to caviar being vastly overrated. Vodka is better.
I’m also a big fan of Burgundy wines, especially from natural farms and small young producers and I have read that you don’t hesitate to open a couple of great bottles to a better meal. I’m a little curious about your preference for Burgundy, and why?
I can state everything from the DRC (Domaine Romanée Conti). The Liger Belair is almost as high in quality but at a lower price. Groffier makes great wines right now, at decent prices.
But my eternal favorite is Armand Rousseau. His Chambertin is so clean it’s like magic in your mouth. In principle, each vintage is as good as the other.
Another interest of mine is the more obscure grapes and other local, almost unknown producers. Can you share any wine that is not well-known and without notable ancestry, but still has a remarkable standard and can function as a bit of an eye-opener for the reader?
Perhaps. The worlds very best Pinot Noir actually comes from Australia! Bass Philips Pinot Noir Reserve is the name to remember. It has beaten DRC in many blind tests. It is known to be extremely difficult to obtain and has almost a cult following. Expensive, yes, but well worth it.
Words // Pär Strömberg
