If you haven’t yet tasted fresh vendace roe from Kalix, sometimes referred to as the Caviar of Kalix, you’ve got a real treat in store. Forget the other fish roes you’ve tasted; the small grains have an incredibly delicate and mildly salty flavor, reminiscent of the cold, brackish northern waters it comes from.
The Kalix roe sold in Stockholm is usually frozen, but during a short period from the end of September to the end of October each year, a handful of restaurants serve it fresh. Through its collaboration with fisherman Kent Karlsson in Kalix, Riche has traditionally been the first restaurant to bring “the red gold” to the tables during its Löjromsfestival, the vendace roe festival.
“For us, the festival is a chance to serve some of the best delicacies from Norrland, and to put these fantastic Swedish ingredients in the limelight,” says Thomas Mortensen, head chef at Riche.
For the duration of the four day long festival, Riche will also serve a special menu featuring cheeses, meats, fish, dairy products and berries from the north of Sweden, a region famed for its excellent local food culture.
Vendace roe is also harvested in other parts of the world, but what makes the Kalix roe so special are the specific conditions on the Swedish side of the Gulf of Bothnia. Here, the vendace rarely grow more than 20 centimeters long, and the salt content of the water is only three parts per million. On the Finnish side of the Gulf, for instance, the input of freshwater is lower. Each vendace contains around two teaspoons of roe, which must be extracted by hand, preferably within 24 hours of lifting the fish from the sea. Kalix vendace roe is the only Swedish product with the Protected Designation of Origin status – an EU classification that covers such unique products as Roquefort cheese and Parma ham.
As you might have guessed, this delicacy from Norrland comes at a considerable cost; the price per kilo usually varies between 1000 and 2000 Swedish kronor. And how best to eat it? Quite simply on its own, with a glass of champagne, and as much as your wallet can take.
Löjromsfestival at Riche, September 20-23
