Dinner at Niklas

Italian cuisine, it seems, is always in fashion, but ever since Jamie Oliver launched his Italian cookbook, toured the country in a food-themed television show and opened a successful chain of Italian restaurants in Britain, it seems to be enjoying a whole new lease of life, even in Sweden. One of the latest chefs to try his hand at this style is Niklas Ekstedt, himself a television chef.

While Ekstedt’s other Stockholm restaurant, titled after his surname, focuses on food grilled over an open flame, the first- name sibling has an ever-changing theme. Niklas will be updating its menu every six months, and the food will always be based on his inspirational travels around the world. First up is northern Italy.

Niklas is an Italian bistro with a sombre and elegant interior; the dining room is located at the back of a long, narrow space, and while being led to their tables, diners pass a bar (where a more modest bar menu is also served) that will doubtless become a new after- work favourite for the city’s hard-working young professionals. It’s cosy to sit on the pistachio- green chairs and brown sofas and, forget the rainy weather outside.

The lighting is flattering but almost too low, so much so that we have the urge to pick up our iPhones for additional illumination when peering at the menu cards.

The menu is divided into pasta, antipasti, pizza, mains and desserts, and all the wines – with the exception of the champagne – also come from northern Italy. The waiter has no objections when we suggest sharing a plate of charcuterie (140 kronor) and a ravioli with rabbit, sage, browned butter, olive oil and grated braduro stravec cheese (155 kronor). Both are excellent starters: the salami and bresaola are cut wafer- thin and served with a glass jar of crunchy vegetables tossed in vinegar. The rabbit pasta is slightly too salty but nevertheless delicious, with distinct taste of sage.

The same high standard level continues when the main courses arrive. My dining companion chose the leg of lamb boiled in barolo wine, served with a creamy polenta and pearl onions (235 kronor), while I order an incredibly tender osso buco milanese (275 kronor), that comes with a saffron risotto – so good that every last grain of rice is scraped from the bowl it is served in. The price may be on the high side, but the quality doesn’t disappoint– and for those in search of a simpler, more affordable meal, there are pizzas for 125 kronor.

The dessert list has four options, a tiramisù, a semifreddo, zabaglione with roasted nuts and blackberries and the day’s selection of ice cream and sorbet. We go for the tiramisú (85 kronor) and the semifreddo (105 kronor). The tiramisù is good but not exceptional, while the semifreddo, served in a small bowl full of figs, raspberries and caramel gets full marks.

Niklas has gotten off to a good start – now let’s hope he will keep up with the good work when the next menu is introduced in March.