Moules frites, steak tartar, oysters, bouillabaisse – Stockholmers can’t get enough of the French classics, and since last autumn we have another eatery to enjoy them in – Napolyon on Grev Turegatan 15.

Napolyon, smack in the middle of the city’s chicest shopping district on Östermalm, serves all the classics as well as the Swedish favourites often found in the local bistros here, such as Toast Pelle Jansson. And it does it nicely, too.

Is there space for another modern French-Swedish bistro in town? It would seem so. On an ordinary, cold Monday evening the restaurant is at least half-filled with couples and groups of friends everywhere between 30 and 60, some coming from work, others stopping by spontaneously on their evening walk, along with a few ladies drinking wine by the window seats.

With its dark wooden furniture, bland and white checked floors, candles and soft-spoken guests, the intimate dining room is a cosy escape from the elements, complete with an enormous wine fridge – covering almost one entire wall from floor to ceiling, it instantly makes you want to reach for the impressive list of beverages.

The menu is short and easy to tackle. The current choices are presented on one page and consist of the above-mentioned classics. For starters, you can also choose to order oysters for a reasonable 25 kronor per piece, or a simple green salad for 35 kronor. We go for the salt baked beets with goat cheese cream, roasted walnuts and brown butter (145 kronor) and bleak roe on toasted brioche with sour cream and red onion (165 kronor), along with a generous glass of champagne for 130 kronor. Red and yellow beets with goat’s cheese is always a winning combination, but my dining companion gives the classic roe brioche an 8 out of 10, comparing it with crispier experiences in the past.

For the mains, we order Napolyon’s fish soup with aioli, croutons and gruyere cheese (225 kronor) and pork belly with cauliflower, pickled tomatoes and truffle gravy (245 kronor).

The fish soup, served with the aioli, croutons and cheese separately on the side, is wonderful: hearty and strong with perfectly firm prawns and fish. The rustic, crispy pork doesn’t leave us disappointed, either.

The real stars this time are the desserts, though – especially the glass au four (85 kronor), an absolute must when dining here. A thin tart shell filled with chocolate sorbet and raspberries, covered with beautifully bubbly, soft meringue and prepared by the chef with the precision of a Swiss watchmaker, it’s an absolute delight.

The coupe royal (85 kronor) is a simpler option; a silver bowl with three kinds of ice cream and sorbet and summer berries. Sweet enough to send you dreaming of the coming summer, and another evening at Napolyon.

Napolyon restaurant in Stockholm is located on Grev Turegatan 15.